In this video, we're going to refine our initial block in to serve as a basis for our future blocked in pieces. In this video, I'm going to continue working on the block count for our model. In this video, I'm going to continue working on the blackout for our binoculars going part by part to develop something of a mid poly model. As you can see from my PRF board here, since I started collecting my initial group of images, I've had to find more and I've had more luck finding some side views, for instance, here as well as some three quarters views. I really found that looking for especially if I'm looking for a real-world object like this, someone who's trying to sell it often will show really close at detailed pictures of parts of things, and I can even get a sense especially if it's used of where wear and tear might normally come into the object, which helps me make it more realistic. So I'm going to pull my PRF board back off to the side, and into my second monitor, and let's take a look at my block in right here. Of course, I have my top view here, which is my main view, and a front view that I'm going to be referencing. Now, we have this issue where we have the binocular eyepieces are going to look closer to the image in the reference here. So if I grab the image plane here, you could see that although the actual eyepiece is lined up pretty well, the overall shape of the reference doesn't line up. So now that I know the eyepieces are where they should be, I'm actually going to grab instead, and scale up my reference to match my block in. This is how I'm going to keep it consistent from the top to the bottom, and then I want to get this little line down here, where I see the definition between the battery pack and the overall base of this. Put it right there where I have this battery pack, so I can make sure it all lines up pretty well. Mostly here, I'm looking for the left and the right to line up. It will bow out a little bit, but I can see already that I need to bring some of these words up and make this shape a little bit taller. I can also bring in one of those side views that have already taken a look at, and let's bring in this little side view here. Rotate it, and scale it up. Just like with the other images, don't forget to turn on. Our see-through mode, and rotate it till it feels more or less perpendicular with my model here. So like I mentioned, we're going to be skipping back and forth between a couple of different views trying our best to use all of these images together to get a sense of the overall shape, but this is helping me confirm that a lot of these pieces are actually lining up pretty well for me, and of course, as I'm going what I'm really looking for is not trying to base everything too much off the side views because they're not pure orthographic, but instead looking at a lot of my three quarters views just to get a sense of does this feel correct. This is one of the reasons drawing skills can be really helpful even to a 3D artist because it helps you get a sense of scale, and perspective for something. Now, I'm going to break this whole process down into a couple different pieces. For one, I have the main body. I'm going to have the front area here, where I have things like this dial, and it's like a separate clasp plastic piece on the front here. I'm going to have these eyepieces, this little handle, and then this back viewer piece, where we actually had the lenses. So all of these are going to be separate, and I'm going to have to build these out one at a time.
